The Glory That was Taal
By Amadis Ma. Guerrero

The glory that was Greece and the grandeur that was Rome. Ah, a well-remembered phrase from school days. Our miseducated history classes did not mention Taal in Batangas, but this town, too, has had its share of glory and grandeur.

Taal flourishes during the first two centuries of Spanish rule, the capital of la provincia de Taal (now Batangas) and part of the Balangon region which stretched from Taal Lake and Volcano to Balayan Bay.

Two catastrophes, however, led to Taal's decline, like the decline and fall of the Roman empire: the great eruption of Taal Volcano in 1754, which brought the lakeshore towns to their knees; and the earthquake of 1849.

From the rubble of the earthquake rose the magnificent San Martin de Tours Basilica, completed in 1865 after a nine-year construction period. But by then, Taal's fate was sealed. Through the decades, the sitios and barrios -- like Lemery, Bauan, San Nicolas, Santa Teresita, San Luis and Alitagtag -- became independent towns; and Taal became a small town in Manila, leaving their stately mansions in the care of their helpers.

Today, Taal is a mere two-hour ride (light traffic, moderate speed) from EDSA Magallanes. The commuter may take a BLTB or a J.A.M. bus bound for Lemery, which provides a contrast to adjoining Taal; noisy Lemery, silent Taal ("the silence of the centuries," you might say).

The joke is that Taal is Forbes Park while Lemery is Divisoria. In this case, "Divisoria" is more prosperous than "Forbes Park" because "Lemery is more progressive economically; we are being left behind," observes a Taal resident.

If he is not too fastidious about the amenities, the visitor with nowhere to stay in Taal (there are no hotels) may check in at Lemery's Villalobos Lodge and Restaurant where, at any given hour of the day, he will find colorful Fellini-type characters like goodtime gals and armed plainclothesmen with walkie-talkies. No cause for alarm, however, because they seem harmless. (There is a more expensive, European-style hotel outside the town proper, but I think it caters to foreign tourists.)

From Lemery you can take a tricycle to Taal. But only a small bridge over the Pansipit river separates the two towns, and you can just walk.

As you cross over into Taal, you can immediately feel the difference. One of the first things you will see on the left is the Marcela Agoncillo Historical Landmark, now run (like the nearby Leon Apacible Historical Landmark) by the National Historical Institute.

Marcela Marino de Agoncillo (1859-1946) has gone down in Philippine history as the woman who, while in exile in Hongkong with her husband Felipe, sewed the Philippine flag -- upon the request of Emilio Aguinaldo -- which was displayed during the inauguration of the First Philippine Republic on June 12, 1898.

The house itself is said to have been built during the late 17th century by Marcela's grandfather, Andres Marino. If so, this would make it one of the oldest structures (if not the oldest) in a town fragrant with the smell of the past. Among the many items on display are old books in Tagalog, English and French. The French books were acquired by the family when they were in Hongkong.

As you walk on you will see and experience the many old houses, the ancestral homes and the landmarks and varied things Taal is noted for: the shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay, said to be miraculous; the San Lorenzo Ruiz arch with its 125 steps; the grotto and well of Santa Lucia (also reputed to be miraculous), with its ancient stone arch with chiseled designs; along with more mundane matters like handwoven embroidery, balisong knives and home-made delicacies.

A short, uphill walk takes you to the Basilica, one of the biggest churches in the East, with its five front doors and massive faŸade. The Basilica overlooks the town plaza and Balayan Bay.

Taal is a quiet town, and almost everything in it is old. But in this case, old is beautiful. -- Reprinted from Traveler's Choice from North to South (published and exclusively distributed by Anvil Publishing, Inc.)